Full French Starter Kit

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Description

Notes - Prepare the nails for enhancements, making sure you buff the nails with a 240grit sponge board or a 220 grit Yellow Teflon file to remove the shine - not the nail, and then sanitizing the nail plate with a saturated nail wipe soaked in Bella Forma's Nail Wipe Solution to remove the dust and any excess oils. Your basic manicure is the most important part of the service. If you do not take the time to prepare the nails properly, you will have lifting.

Carefully scoop a small amount of Bella Forma clear gel onto one side of your brush. Holding your brush perpendicular to the jar, and just barely entering the gel, scoop quickly to one side and pull the brush out. You should end up with a small lump on one side of the brush.

Offload the gel in the middle of the nail plate and brush toward the free edge, then working the gel toward the cuticle. The first coat of Bella Forma applied to the nail is called �wetting the nail'. This is done with the brush held at a 45-degree angle, offloading in the middle, working your way to the free edge and then to the cuticle. Very little gel is used for the first half of this first coat. DO NOT CURE YET. Now reload your brush with Bella Forma and apply the second half of the first coat. Now cure. The reason for �wetting' the nail is that the next layer of gel that goes on will stay right where the wet coat is and helps to reduce shrinkage. This also helps to give a thin layer of Bella Forma at the cuticle. Bella Forma Nails must be thin at the cuticle and the free edge.

Stroke the gel in much the same manner as a polish application, pulling the brush to the free edge. A brush held at a 45-degree angle removes Bella Forma. A flat angled brush (horizontal to the nail) allows the Bella Forma to remain on the nail.

Check the nail from each side and the center. If there are any dips in the natural nail you can build it up with clear Bella Forma, giving a C-Curve and a natural arch to the imperfect nail. Utilize your overhead lamp, looking at the reflection on the nail. If you do not see a straight light reflection on the gel then you have a dip in the gel. Remember Bella Forma does self level, but if you still have a crooked reflection, then put a little more gel on your brush, touch the gel on your brush to the gel on the nail plate and lift up ever so slightly. This will allow you to move the gel where you want to.

NOTE: You can only build with clear Bella Forma and NOT color Bella Forma. When you feel you have the perfect nail, hold your brush at a 45-degree angle and remove the small lump of gel that forms at the free edge. Seal the free edge by lightly touching with the flat side of your brush. Cure in a 4 � 9 watt bulb UV curing lamp.

During application, be sure the brush hairs do not �fan� out. If they do fan out, you are applying too much pressure and not enough gel will be left on the nail plate to allow for shrinkage during cure, and the result will be tiny �craters� where the gel has pulled away during the curing process. Should this occur, re-apply a thin coating of gel, making sure to apply less pressure. Do not over-work the gel as this will result in air bubbles and/or an uneven cure. If you do not notice the �craters� until you have removed the sticky residue, buff away the shine off the gel, wipe with Bella Forma's Nail Wipe Solution and re-apply.

Repeat this process on all five fingers of the hand. Before curing, check your work again to be sure the entire nail plate is evenly covered with a thin layer of gel. Check the cuticle and sidewall lines to be certain that no gel is touching the skin, and if so, remove it with an orangewood stick or a toothpick. If you have built up a nail (i.e. a ski jump nail and gave a c-curve) make sure you cure it once you are done so it keeps the shape you want. The gel is self-leveling. Also, if you are working in hot humid conditions, or the nails are very moist and oily, use the wipe and apply method. This is when you wipe with Bella Forma's Nail Wipe Solution; apply Bella Forma on one nail and then cure.

Place the nails under the UV Light for 60 seconds to completely cure the gel. Apply a second coating of gel and cure for 60 seconds.

NOTE: Clear Bella Forma curing time is 60 seconds and color Bella Forma is 3 minutes. For color Bella Forma this is total curing time for each coat. This means you can do one or two fingers at a time put them into the UV Light, and do one or two fingers on the other hand. The whole hand goes back into the light and continues to cure, giving a total curing time of three minutes.

Remove the hand from the light and clean the nails with a lint-free nail wipe saturated with Bella Forma's Nail Wipe Solution. This will remove the sticky �uncured� layer on the top of the enhancement, even though the nails will still feel slightly tacky which is normal. Inspect nails for an even surface, and if �craters� are evident, apply one thin layer of gel and cure.
Apply Bella Forma to the other hand following the previous procedures. Should you find that some gel has touched the sides or the cuticle area, remove with a 220-grit yellow Teflon file and then buff until smooth. Finish by applying a sealer, Bella Shine Top Coat for a French manicure, a clear overlay or color Bella Forma.

If the client prefers a permanent French Manicure use a white color gel (Garey's Smile or White Linen) to the free edge. Apply the color Bella Forma, Garey's Smile or White Linen, cure. Re-apply 2nd coat of white, cure and then apply clear Bella Forma over. Wipe with Bella Forma's Nail Wipe Solution and then apply Bella Shine Top Coat.

Pink & Whites � Apply pink Bella Forma gel to the nail, offloading in the middle, brushing to the free edge, and then working back to the cuticle. Prior to curing, take your clean flat brush and remove the gel where you want the smile line to go. Now �freeze' the pink in place by putting it into the curing lamp for 30 seconds. Apply the white Bella Forma gel of your choice (one even coat) and cure for 3 minutes. Apply second coat of white and cure. Now apply a layer of clear Bella Forma over the nail and cure. Wipe with Bella Forma's Nail Wipe Solution to remove the sticky residue, do final shape if needed and apply Bella Shine Top Coat.

REMEMBER: Three minutes curing time for color Bella Forma and 60 seconds curing time for clear.